Wild adventures at Magadi
Lake Magadi is a shimmering expanse of nothingness. It is a mirage like lake in a kaleidoscope of differently shaded browns, wobbling in a wave of heat. In the dry season as the lake recedes the ground become a harsh and uninviting saltpan. A go cart track for 4 x 4s, an outrageously fun way to reach hot springs bubbling in lichen green pools. The lake is enclosed by the Aberdares, Loita HIlls and Mau Escarpment, it contains the most concentrated brine in the Kenyan Lake system. At times this salty lake turns bright pink due to algae bloom.
Lake Magadi Conservancy
Lake Magadi is not for the faint hearted. In the heat of summer the temperatures reach 40 degrees and the area is desert like desolate. Sandy outcrops are home to Maasai families and their goats. Vegetation is sparse and fresh drinking water a rarity. The flat fawn coloured rocks stretch out to the horizon, broken only by the Ngurumani escarpment a moonscape not of this world. As the rains come the lake refills and the bird life always numerous explodes: Flamingo, Pelican, plover, sunbirds, finch and a myriad others. There are larger animals within the conservancy: Giraffe, Zebra, Oryx and Wildebeest and on occasion lion and elephant. But this isn’t a place for viewing animals this is a place to gaze in wonder at the scenery. To draw breath in Kenya’s raw nature, to marvel at the resilience of the life that exists here.
A mesmerising journey
A visit to Lake Magadi is worth it for the drive alone, a three-hour journey through severe countryside. Sand and Acacia trees are your only companions for most of the potholed and dusty road. The path to Magadi gives you the opportunity to glimpse inside the lives of one of the more famed Kenyan tribes, the Maasai. Peppered along the route are Maasai Villages, not tourist mimicry but real people living real lives. The journey to Magadi is a chance to see Kenyan people still living the way their forefathers did. Life appears to have remained the same for centuries. Traditionally dressed villagers tend cows and babies, or in a nod to modern times wait at the roadside for boda bodas to bring cartons of water.
Lake Magadi Sports Club
The lake itself is 30 minutes outside of Magadi town. Often called the pink lake for its abundance of flamingos and the famous algae which blooms in certain conditions. Most visitors make a stop at the Lake Magadi Sports Club an exotic name for a basic but homely establishment. The main attraction in this land that never feels the cold is the large swimming pool, which everyone is invited to enjoy for a few hundred shillings. The club serves hot and cold food all well flavoured and moreish.
Lake Magadi Hot Springs
Heading to the springs themselves is a further drive on from the sports club. Skirt the lake in the wet season or channel Mad Max on the salt flats in the dry, it’s an exhilarating and enticing journey across the arid landscapes.
The hot springs are entirely natural, don’t expect the swimming pool style springs of Naivasha. At points the springs are little more than a hole in the ground full of extremely hot water. A dip in these springs is always best at the coolest time of the day, unless submerging yourself in 90 degree water under 40-degree heat is your thing. There are no facilities and no shade so bring lots of water. There are a group of local Maasai ladies who visit the springs to sells their crafts, a nice token to bring some money and buy some of their handiwork.
Eat:
The Lake Magadi Sports Club is the only place to eat. If you are staying longer than a day then I suggest your bring your own food.
Lake Magadi Sports Club has basic rooms for 8000KES.
The tented camp at Magadi looks gorgeous. I’ve not stayed but had a peak inside the tents. Each tent comes with air-conditioning, a double bed with fresh white sheets and sleeps two. By night a bonfire is lit overlooking the lake to enjoy a true camping experience. Costs approx 8000 KES per tent, per night
Camp along the lake: It is possible the camp along the lakeside. Once at Magadi you will need to ask an Askari to show you the spot and to guard your camp overnight. This is camping at its most basic, no facilities just you and the wide-open skies.
Costs:
500 KES per person and 100 for cars to enter the conservancy
300 KES to use the pool at the sports club
Getting there:
Take the Magadi road from the junction Bomas of Kenya and galleria towards Rongai and Kiserian. Proceed for about 3 hours (87kms from Kiserian) along the road. At the checkpoint the guides will direct you.
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Haloo wanted to know if you are open and functioning…thanks in advance
Hello I don’t run the facilities at Lake Magadi. Last i heard the country club there was shut but the tented camp may be open. You can call them to find out
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Which season is the ideal time to see pink algae in the lake magadi which look pink completely?
Im not actually sure, the reports online differ. Please do let me know if you find out
We left Nairobi at 9 am on Oct 10th , our Heroes Day, taking a 3hr leisure drive, enjoying the beautiful scenery as we descended into the rift valley. The area has an influx of Totota Probox and motor bikes which have become the main source of transportation. Other (mostly elders) choose to walk long distances, always with at least 5ltr jerrycans. It was getting hot after 11am , we had cold water bottles in our cooler box.
We arrived at 12:30pm and got flaged down by Masaai youth who claimed to be Guides. We said we were going to the Hot Spring. One man entered the car as our guide and explained that we had to pay 500 shillings per head -we were 6 of us, so he exempted my 8 year old daughter.
We took a two minute drive towards the TATA chemicals main gate, and diverted towards the industrial water pump nearby. He informed us that we had arrived and asked for payment before we proceed. I paid and we walked 50 meters to a small dug-out hole beside the water pump. It had some tadpoles or fish swimming in it.
THIS WAS APPARENTLY THE HOT SPRING! I wasn’t amused. Naturally I immediately protested and demanded my money back! He said the money was for the local community, and I agreed but felt that it was not okay that we being mis-guided.
He immediately refunded me my cash with a big apology and we proceed to the TATA security gate for official entry to the Springs.
They informed us that the Hot Springs had been closed since the COVID 19 pandamic, and it was strictly out of bounds.
We were disappointed and had to head back to Nairobi, but not before stopping to take some pictures.We drove on and were later stopped by some children asking for water, when we stopped and alighted the car to get the water from the trunk, they took off!
I convinced them to come and take the water, and their mother consented , they came over and we shared a moment – being the highlight of the day. The kids took a picture together.
So we will wait for TATA to officially open before we head back that way again.
For now, please note Hot Springs is Closed to the Public
Thank you so much for letting me know. Crazy that they are still shut when its an outdoor activity
Hi, please share contact for staying in the tented camp at Lake Magadi as I can’t find any number to make a booking with. Thanka
I dont have a direct number as Ive never actually stayed there, but you can go through this company https://africanspicesafaris.com/tour/lake-magadi-tented-camp/