Watamu Beach Kenya – A Local’s Travel Guide to Paradise

Watamu Beach Kenya is one of the most popular coastal destinations in Kenya.

Watamu Beach has it all – long white sand beaches with turquoise waves breaking over knee deep sand bars, a world class diving destination in the Watamu Marine Park. Watamu has accommodation ranging from five-star hotels to thatched huts or whitewashed mansions. Watamu Kenya has the coolest bars, authentic Italian restaurants, tiny shacks on stilts selling freshly caught crab, and the infamous Lichthaus where hammocks invite you to sip cocktail over the translucent waters of Mida Creek.

In Watamu you can waterski on the creek, dive on the reef, and sup cocktails in a dhow. You can visit ancient Swahili ruins, ride horseback on the sand and swim in the shallows with sharks. Watamu Beach is all the best bits of the Kenyan coast in one special place.

Watamu Beach Kenya – A Local’s Travel Guide to Paradise

Watamu Beach Kenya has a distinctive coastline. Watamu’s beaches are dotted with tiny deserted islets. Sandbars rise out of the sea, offering walkways to the islands at low tide or places to bask with a cocktail at high. The soft white sand beaches are sprinkled with starfish and weeny hermit crabs. 

The shoreline in Watamu Kenya is festooned with palms, where, hidden within the lush bush, are houses dating back to colonial times. Thatched roofs hide affluent Kenyans lounging in pools, sipping their gin and tonics. Elsewhere, houses stand in disrepair; their walls stained black with time and salt winds, their roofs long since collapsed, the gardens full of chattering monkeys and iridescent lizards. Occasionally the serenity of the coastline is broken up by a Watamu five star resort where pale tourists lie in the shade and sip from the coconuts that boys sell on the beach. 

Away from the hotels, fishing boats pull up at lunchtime and disgorge their catch: octopus, prawns, snapper and huge crayfish. Chefs from the nearby houses haggle at the boats; the fish is taken home and turned into curries for rich residents from Nairobi. 

Along the dusty tracks, tuk-tuks bump past ice cream parlours and cafes selling authentic Italian pizza. Stalls selling hippie pants, kaftans, woven baskets and beaded crafts line the road. A hubbub of people gather around stalls piled high with spinach, tomatoes, and onion. Kids munch on mangos and chase chickens through the streets.

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Mida Creek Watamu Beach Kenya

In Mida Creek the land sweats, the boats bob, the tide comes in and turtles hatch and make their laborious way down to the waves. The sea washes into Mida Creek lagoon where it creeps its way under the mangrove trees and leaves fall like rain and turn into thick brown silt. Terrapins bask in the dampness on branches that dip below the water and huge crabs climb the trees or into traps that are set by local fisherman. No wind touches the inland creek. The humidity increases. Sweat beads the heads of the village ladies who carry babies on their backs in brightly coloured Kangas, and the men who labour over firewood with blunt pangas.  

This sleepy creek is a popular destination for sunset dhow cruises, where the warm waters invite you to jump ship and splash in the golden glow of a setting sun. The most popular bar and restaurant in town, Lichthaus Watamu, overlooks Mida Creek (more on that later). Various companies (I recommend Tribe Watersports) provide activities in the creek, from the infamous Creek Float to waterskiing or kitesurfing.

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Watamu Marine Park

Protected by the Watamu Marine Association, Watamu National Marine Park covers 229 km and has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The area which encompasses most of Watamu and Mida Creek is an idyll of white sand beaches, protected lagoons and coral beds. Only Australia’s Great Barrier Reef has a larger species list. Watamu Marine Park is inhabited by 1000 different species of fish, including parrot fish, manta rays, whale sharks, sharks, dugongs, Olive, Ridley and Hawksbill turtle.

Snorkelling and diving are allowed in the reserve before obtaining a permit from Kenya Wildlife Service. Make sure to obtain this permit BEFORE entering the sea with snorkelling gear, even if walking in off the beach. There are some excellent PADI dive schools in Watamu. Read my diving in Kenya for full information.

• Aqua Ventures – A well-established dive centre offering PADI courses, guided dives, and snorkelling trips. They also organise dolphin and whale watching excursions.
• Scuba Diving in Kenya – Located at the Turtle Bay Beach Club, this centre offers PADI-certified courses and daily diving trips to sites around Watamu, including the Watamu Marine National Park.
• Bluefin Diving – A PADI-certified dive centre that provides a variety of courses from beginner to advanced levels. They offer diving excursions within Watamu Marine National Park and beyond.
• Ocean Sports Diving – Situated at Ocean Sports Resort, they offer PADI courses, dive safaris, and customised trips around the Marine Park, often spotting dolphins, turtles, and a variety of coral life.
• Peponi Divers – Offers a range of diving courses and trips, focusing on a safe and personalised diving experience. They’re also known for their eco-friendly practices and conservation work.
• Tribe Watersports – While specialising more in kitesurfing and watersports, they also organise diving excursions and partner with local dive schools for certification courses.

Garoda Beach Watamu Kenya

Unfailingly beautiful and the only beach guaranteed free of seaweed year round. Garoda Beach sits between the long sweep of Turtle Bay Beach and Mida Creek. Here, a gap in the reef is replaced by turquoise waters and white sand, and at low tide, a series of sandbars that means you can walk far out into the ocean. At high tide Garoda beach is popular with kite surfers.

Where To Stay in Garoda Beach

$$$ Kobe Suite Resort – A boutique hotel featuring suites and bungalows, each with private terraces. The hotel emphasises sustainability and provides a more intimate experience.

$$$ Temple Point Resort – Located on Mida Creek, this resort offers spacious rooms and beautiful natural surroundings. The resort also organises water sports, cultural activities, and excursions to explore the area. This is where Lichthaus is located.

$$ Gecko Resort Watamu – Large mid-range hotel with accommodation options, two pools and a restaurant. Occupies a fabulous position right on Garoda Beach.

Turtle Bay Watamu Beach Kenya

Next to Mida Creek is Turtle Bay, where the larger resorts in Watamu are situated. You will find child-friendly Turtle Bay Resort, incomparably upscale Hemingway’s Watamu, local favourite Ocean Sports Resort and the elegant Medina Palms here. The long sandy beach fronts a shallow reef where you can snorkel and see rays, octopus, moray eels and an abundance of colourful fish. In the colder months (April to October) the beach can get very full of seaweed.

Where To Stay in Turtle Bay Kenya

$$$ Hemingways Watamu: This luxury resort offers oceanfront rooms, elegant suites, and villas. With top-notch amenities like a spa, fine dining, and access to the marine park, it’s ideal for a relaxing, upscale stay.

$$$ Medina Palms: Known for its luxurious suites and private villas, this hotel has stunning architecture, lush gardens, and excellent dining options. It also offers activities like snorkelling and diving.

$$ Turtle Bay Beach Club: A family-friendly resort with an all-inclusive package, multiple pools, and access to a private beach. They offer various water sports, making it ideal for adventure lovers.

$$ Ocean Sports Resort: This cosy beach resort is right by the ocean, offering simple yet comfortable rooms. They have an in-house bar and restaurant, and the resort is known for its relaxed vibe and water sports offerings.

Papa Remo Beach Watamu

Papa Remo Beach Kenya is a kaleidoscope of blues. In waters coloured azure, indigo, navy and aquamarine lie small islets that you can walk out to at low tide and a curved bay filled with shimmering sandbars. Out beyond the islands that protect the shoreline, the water deepens and waves crash. Giant red crabs scurry over rocks as moray eels poke their noses out from hidden caves. A bay made for snorkelling and wallowing in the shallows with a glass of wine.

Papa Remo restaurant takes a prime position on the beach. This Italian-run joint has a glorious list of pizza, pasta, seafood, salad, and absolutely killer cocktails. After lunch, grab a sunbed and marvel at the beauty of this lesser-known paradise. Further up the beach is sleeker and more sophisticated Visiwa, offering an equally delicious list of Italian food and a picture-perfect pool for swimming.

Where To Stay at Papa Remo Beach Kenya

Visiwa Resort – small rooms in a boutique hotel above the restaurant.

I’ve detailed the best hotels to stay in Watamu, but there are many private houses and villas to rent here. Creekside houses are cheaper, but in the summer months can be unbearably hot. Depending on where you stay, it can be a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride to the beach, so make sure it has a pool and air conditioning. Here’s a comprehensive blog on WHERE TO STAY IN WATAMU BEACH

Head over to discoverwatamu.com or Kilifi Connection for private houses and villas and Airbnb has lots of good options for cheaper accommodation.  

Where to Eat in Watamu Beach Kenya

Discover places to eat and drink in Watamu with my blog BEST RESTAURANTS IN WATAMU. Here’s a list of my favourites:

Papa Remo on Papa Remo beach has freshly caught fish from which they create amazing pasta dishes, authentic Italian pizza and incredible cocktails.

Ocean Sports is the local’s favourite, or Karen on Sea, for the many Nairobi expatriates visiting here. Has a great spot on Turtle Bay Beach, excellent pizza, seafood, sushi, lots of drinks and the best New Year’s Eve party in Kenya.

Pilipan sits on Prawn Lake restaurant in away from the beach in Watamu. It has a to-die-for view across the lake. Cocktails are fabulous, but the food is mediocre. Seafood is a good option. Service is tedious at best, but the amazing view and chilled ambience more than make u for it.

Lichthaus Watamu is a groovy creek-side restaurant with hammocks hanging out over the creek. It serves four types of kebab on massive plates of salad and chapati, and lots of cocktails. Chiled by day, a party palace by night. It is unequivocally my favourite place to each in Watamu.

The Crab Shack on Mida Creek is a must-do for their scrumptious crab samosas and a cool beer, watching the sunset over the lagoon. They do great but expensive seafood dishes and you can eat freshly caught crab in the most romantic of settings.

Where to Shop in Watamu Beach Kenya

From 2024, Watamu now has the Blue Moon Shoping Centre along Turtle Bay road. This shiny new complex has all Watamu’s best places to shop. For food, head to Blue Marmalade, which has Kenyan brands such as Kenchic, Farmers Choice, The Well Hung Butcher, Highlands Castle Farm, Browns Cheese, Delia’s, and Salmon from Smokey Oakeys. They have fresh fish and vegetables and other household goods, and the wine and beer selection is excellent. You’ll find Watamu’s eternal favourite Sooz Jools with its gorgeous jewellery. Ice cream, pastries and coffee at Non Solo Gelato and a bunch of other shops, including pharmacies, clothing and swimwear.

Coast to Country is a furniture and luxury goods shop selling handmade furniture, art, decor and some clothing. Coast to Country has sister shops in Nanyuki and Nairobi, but the Watamu Beach shop is the best.

Shakir sells kikoy and Indian block print clothing at a fraction of the price elsewhere in Kenya, as well as divine bedspreads and tablecloths. They have a larger store in Malindi.

What to Do in Watamu Beach

Turtle Bay Resort

If you have kids, then you can buy a day or afternoon pass to Turtle Bay Resort. 3000ppn full day and 1500ppn half day (kids are cheaper). The day pass gets you food and free booze. The kids can go to the kids’ club swim in two huge pools or play on the playground. You can also learn to dive here.

Gede Ruins

A 13th Century Swahili settlement that was rapidly abandoned in the 16th century. No one knows why the villagers left so suddenly. What is unusual about Gede is that no records of the town were kept and it was left to the jungle and hidden from the world until its rediscovery in the 20th century. Crumbling ruins and jungle trails lead through a world filled with monkeys, birds and butterflies. An amazing chance to gain insight into a forgotten piece of history. ADULT 1000/CHILDREN 500.

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Local Ocean Trust

This NGO works to rescue, rehabilitate and conserve the environment for turtles native to Kenya Coastline. The Watamu coast is a favoured breeding ground for turtles and the Ocean Trust‘s work includes nest protection and anti-poaching patrols. A visit to their premises to understand the work that they do and visit some of the fascinating patients in the Sea Turtle Rehabilitation Centre is a great way to teach kids the importance of caring for our oceans and their inhabitants.

Bio Ken Snake Park

The BioKen Snake Park just off the high street in Watamu is home to the largest collection of snakes in East Africa.  A whopping 127 snakes that are native to Kenya.  Primarily a research centre (this is probably one of the best places in Africa to get bitten by a snake owing to their expertise on snakebites and anti-venom). The facility is open to the public and a local guide will give you a 45-minute tour of the centre and a chance to meet the black spitting cobra, black mamba, horned viper and the deadly twig snake. ADULT 1000/CHILDREN 500

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How to Get to Watamu Beach Kenya

Local flights fly into Malindi, which is the nearest airport, and fly several times a day from around 70 USD. Flying from Nairobi to Mombasa is cheaper approx 50 USD, but you will need to take a two-hour taxi journey.

The SGR Train travels from Nairobi to Mombasa twice a day. The morning train takes 6 hours. Local tip: get out one stop before Mombasa at Marikani to avoid the city traffic and reduce time on both the train and in the taxi.

Tickets cost 3000 adult/ 1500 kids in first class and 1000 adults /500 kids in second class. 

International flights fly into Mombasa or the Kenyan capital of Nairobi.

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When to visit Watamu Beach

Watamu is excellent to visit any time of the year. Reports will warn you off the rainy season April – June but even during the rains the temperature is warm (it rarely dips below 26) and rains are usually sporadic rather than a day-long deluge.

Insider tips for Watamu Beach Kenya

The seaweed in Watamu beach can be pretty bad in the winter months. See the picture of the beach at Turtle Bay when we were last there. It doesn’t cover the whole of Turtle Bay beach, only the north corner near Hemingway’s and Turtle Bay. Papa Remo Beach and Garoda are usually fairly clear.

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It’s illegal to snorkel in the water off Watamu without a permit. Buy a ticket at the KWS hut next to Turtle Bay; any tuk-tuk driver will take you there. Don’t be tempted to go without; they patrol the beaches asking for permits.

The reef is about 1km out to shore, boats moor at the northern end of Turtle Bay opposite Ocean Sports Club and will take you out for 2000 KSH adult (resident) 2500 (non resident). However, just tootling around n the shallows off shore we saw moray eels, blue spotted rays and a variety of tropical fish.

Further Reading on Beaches in Kenya

• How to find the Best Hotel in Mombasa
• 21 Incredible Family Friendly Resorts in Kenya 2024
• Watamu hotels and villas : where to stay in Watamu
• Discover Gecko Resort Watamu – Hotel Review

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