Mara Moja Naretoi – An Incredible House in the Maasai Mara

In the Maasai Mara, where wheaten fields stretch to purple hills and life’s eternal dance with death is starkly prevalent, there is a house that will infuse your soul with tranquillity and well-being. Mara Moja in the Naretoi Wildlife Estate has chartreuse green lawns that roll down to the cappuccino-coloured Mara River. In its grounds, a giant Euclea tree casts welcome shade over a glittering pool, and the clean lines of a modern safari house are softened with quirky art and luxuriant furnishings. When I visited this high-end house, I was looking forward to an excellent safari, chef-cooked meals and soft beds, but what I didn’t expect was to be imbued with peacefulness. I relaxed fully, taking naps in the swing, on the sheepskin rug, on the sunbeds, and at night I sank deep into the memory foam mattress and didn’t stir till morning. This place has magic; one of the few sanctuaries that calmed my monkey mind, and stopped my kids from fighting. Let me tell you all about Mara Moja Naretoi. 

Naretoi is a 1000-acre lifestyle estate in the Enonokishu Conservancy, part of the northern Maasai Mara. The estate is unique in Kenya, one of the only privately owned sanctuaries that allow visitors to experience a luxury experience in a safari destination. Naretoi Estate and the effortlessly glamorous Mara Moja are proudly wild. The estate holds several dams, areas of forest and savannah which attract animals. Consequently, it is teeming with plains animals, as the lack of predators within the estate offers a protected area for more vulnerable beasts. During my two-day stay, we saw a lion, jackal, hippo, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, warthog, impala, and many more animals within Naretoi’s grounds. Mara Moja, is a luxury safari home sited on a peninsula that overlooks the Mara River. The house and garden are bordered on three sides by the frothing water and sandy banks, where hippos and crocodiles lie in the warm sun. The point of safari is to spend time with animals, not to jump in a safari car and spend a few hours gazing through a binocular lens before retiring to a generic hotel room. Mara Moja offers visitors the chance to experience safari up close; the plot is unfenced, and animals are free to wander the garden. On my recent trip, I bathed next to a warthog, was lulled to sleep by the grunt of hippos and woke up to a giraffe peeking through the window. 

Mara Moja Naretoi sits on five acres of manicured lawns, wildflower meadows and indigenous woodland. The modern-style building is split into five separate areas, offering guests their own space and central communal areas. The main building has a huge lounge/ dining room with two verandas; one points to Kileleoni Hills and has a large dining table for an alfresco meal, and the other faces the garden and pool and has comfy sofas for reading (and napping). The lounge has an open fire, which the staff will light for you in the evening. The kitchen adjoins the lounge area and is fully kitted out, but I rarely went there, as Mara Moja employs a team of staff, and Joel, the cook, was ever on hand. The owners taste is impeccable; huge pieces of art adorn the walls, designer lamps, squishy cushions, chunky wooden furniture and stacks of books and magazines. It’s rare to find a place in the Maasai Mara that caters so wonderfully for families. The options are usually restricted to campsites or expensive lodges, where I find myself apologising to fellow guests for bringing my own rowdy animals into such a rarified environment. Mara Moja offers families a safari option where kids are allowed to be kids, and the whole family can relax.

Sleeping Accommodation at Mara Moja Naretoi

The sleeping accommodation is in four separate buildings. The Double Sleeper, or Master suite, has an enormous bed with a memory foam mattress and high-count cotton sheets. It’s one of the best nights of sleep I’ve ever had; the bedroom is separated from a kid’s area by a small lounge with a log fire and a reading nook. Our three children adored the kid’s room, which had double bunks with built-in lamps and bookshelves, monkey bars to meander across the ceiling, a swing, bean bags and loads of puzzles, games and kids’ books. Both rooms come with incredible ensuite bathrooms; the master with a deep bath with views across the Mara River and a cheeky little warthog who likes to peer inside. 

The Single Sleeper has a large double bed with secret bunk beds tucked behind a wall. The kids only discovered these the morning we left and swore they would stay in the hidey holes if we ever returned. An ensuite bathroom, with views across the river and the owners ever-tantalising bookcases stuffed with books.

For the adventurous, spend the night in a safari tent on stilts which overlooks a bend of the Mara River. Hidden in the forest amongst the treetops, the enormous canvas safari tent is the same as those used and upper-end camps and lodges across the Mara. It has a double bed and an ensuite shower and loo. The best part, which I am sad I didn’t take advantage of, is the outside shower and bath. I can’t imagine anything better than bathing in the moonlight to the sounds of safari’s night animals. 

The Tiny House is small but perfectly formed. The most private of the sleeping quarters, it faces the Mara River and Henrietta the Hippos’ favourite blonde beach and takes full advantage of its position with a raised double bed and a porch complete with hammock. 

What to do at Mara Moja

Mara Moja has a superb solar-heated pool and sun beds. There is plenty of equipment for the kids, including a trampoline, monkey bars, swings, table tennis, badminton rackets, climbing ropes and stacks of books and games. 

Naretoi Estate has a tennis court that you can use, and tennis rackets are provided.

The main draw for all visitors is safari. Mara Moja and Naretoi sit in the northern Maasai Mara conservancies which comprises Enonkishu, Lemek and Ol Chorro. Guests staying at Mara Moja pay a conservancy fee for access to all three conservancies. There’s a good chance you will spot Kenya’s Big Five: elephant, lion, leopard, rhino and buffalo. There are two rhino in the area, both can be found within the Rhino Sanctuary just a ten minute drive from Naretoi (cost 1000 KSH). Enonkishu has a resident cheetah and leopard, two of the most challenging big five to spot. Self-driving in the three conservancies is not allowed, you must hire a safari guide. Mara Moja has a range of freelance safari guides, all from the area and that know the conservancies intimately. The game drives are set at USD rate; $100 for one game drive (morning or evening of 3-4 hours) and $175 for a full day. This provides you with an eight person vehicle and gives you the best chance of spotting animals. We took a safari vehicle with David as our guide and were rewarded with mating lions, lion cubs, fighting elephants and a pack of hyenas.

Mara Moja Naretoi Information 

• Mara Moja comes with four members of staff: a house manager, a chef, an askari (security guard) and a gardener. 
• Mara Moja is self-catering, so you must supply your food. You can choose to bring food with you, or you can order via Greenspoon, which will deliver to the house. 
• The kitchen is fully equipped. 
• All linens and towels are provided. 
• Drinking water is supplied, and bottles are available in every bedroom. 
• 4×4 access only.

Safety at Mara Moja

• The swimming pool is unfenced, however, Mara Moja does have a pool net so if you have small children please ask the staff to add the net.
• Mara Moja is in a wildlife estate, meaning wild animals are all around. Predators occasionally enter the estate, and hippos sometimes wander up from the river. It is particularly important at night that you don’t traverse the ground between the communal area and your private accommodation without the askari accompanying you. The grounds are usually safe to walk around during the day.
• The Mara River is very fast flowing and filled with hippos and crocodiles. Do not try to swim.
• Be careful when walking in the long grass, as there can be venomous snakes.

Naretoi Wildlife Estate – Enonokishu Conservancy. 

Enonkishu Conservancy and Naretoi have embarked on a conservation effort of note.  Just 10 years ago the conservancy was a barren piece of overgrazed land. The owners bought the property and have dedicated themselves to working with the community to create a holistic grazing plan. In essence, the community was encouraged to cluster their herd together and to graze specific sections leaving other areas fallow, giving it time to regenerate before it is grazed again. Community work includes education on the importance of wildlife, and managing human-animal conflict, and sponsoring several local schools, orphanages and hospitals as well as aiding the community in restoring boreholes and water supply.

The team at Enonkishu have several environmental and conservation projects including, growing and planting trees, supporting local beekeepers and soap makers.  To read more about the work that is being done at Enonkishu, please click on The Futures in the Wild. All homeowners at Naretoi pay an annual contribution to the Enonkishu Conservancy, your contribution to the cause is very welcome.

I highly recommend making time to go to the visitors centre at the Mara Training Centre. The centre will show you the activities in the area, you can see the tree nursery, and they have a beading station for the kids’ to bead their own Maasai jewellery.

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How to get to Mara Moja – Naretoi

Mara Moja is a 4.5 hours self drive from Nairobi, or a 45 min flight to Mara North from Wilson. Recommended airlines are Fly 748, Safarilink and Air Kenya.

What to pack for Mara Moja – Naretoi

See my Safari Packing Guide.

Note that Mara Moja is in a malaria free zone, but pack repellent anyway to avoid pesky bites.

Remember this is a self catering property and you need to bring food, basic supplies such as salt, pepper and tea are available.

How to book Mara Moja

Mara Moja Naretoi is available on Airbnb  – Mara Moja Airbnb.

Further Reading

How much does a Masai Mara safari cost?

Camping in The Maasai Mara – 14 Incredible Campsites

A Kenya safari – what can you expect?

Meru National Park – Wilderness Safari Camping

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