Tsavo National Park
To visit Tsavo is to immerse yourself in the quintessential African Safari. Tsavo is red soil, blue skies, Baobab and Acacia trees. It’s ancient scrubland peppered with fiery termite mounds, muddy brown watering holes backed by the ‘green green’ Chyulu hills. Convolvulus flowers blanket the landscape, their trailing vines covering anything that doesn’t move – scattered bouquet of flowers adorning this rough, raw land. Tsavo’s vivid shades of red, blue and green a kaleidoscopic foreground to Mount Kilimanjaro. Its snow topped peak magically disappearing and reappearing between cumulus clouds.
Tsavo East and West
Tsavo East and West jointly cover nearly 1400 sq. kilometres. Whilst it is home to the entire Big and Little 5 its huge size means the population of animals is less dense, therefore decreasing the chances of spotting game. What Tsavo lacks in the ability to tick animals off your list, it gives back tenfold in African vibes. This is the African safari that tourists come to see, it’s Ernest Hemmingway, it’s Finch Hatton, it’s the famous Tsavo lions… it’s the romanticism of African in its dusty embrace.
From Nairobi to Tsavo
We did Tsavo in a weekend. We left on Friday lunchtime and despite a thousand warnings that it was the worst time of day to depart, we were sat down with a G&T within 4 hours. The road to Tsavo from Nairobi is one long, straight road to hell.
The Mombasa road offers no respite from its endless parade of slow moving trucks. There are no overtaking points and its single lane all the way. It’s an interminable game of chicken and if you haven’t had at least one near death experience then you really aren’t doing it right. This aside its only 4 hours. And in those 4 hours the landscape changed from the green hedges of Karen to the dizzying splendour of the bush. The weather changed from a drizzly 16 degrees to a welcomed 31, without a cloud in the sky. It’s 4 hours but you literally drive from winter to summer.
Where to stay in Tsavo ; Robins house at Mtito Andei
We stayed in Mtito Andei in an Airbnb that’s sort of glamping in a house. The property is situated 10K off the highway and bordering Tsavo park but you could be a million miles from civilization. Robin owns 100 acres of bush land. His tumbledown house is gloriously shabby African safari.
A spacious home it has two bedrooms with huge beds, a serviceable kitchen and loads of outside sitting areas. You can choose from the fire pit by the river, the deckchairs on the roof, the veranda with dining table or the braai area near the bush pool. It’s not glamorous. The electricity runs off a car battery and the water is only as hot as the weather but this house isn’t about luxury and 400 count thread sheets. Get yourself over to a tourist filled lodge if that’s what you want. This is real Africa and in ‘real Africa’ your house comes with a bow and arrow and some hunting knives. In ‘real Africa’ there was an elephant in the garden when we arrived and we fell asleep to the sound of a leopard fighting baboons. Like Tsavo itself Robins house was rough, raw and utterly romantic in a down to earth / back to basics kind of way.
Safari in Tsavo West
Nursing a slight hangover from some enthusiastic wine drinking whilst star gazing on Robins roof we headed for Tsavo National Park in the early morning .
The Tsavo gate is just off the highway in Mtito Andei. The park has the most car friendly roads I’ve seen in a park in Kenya – easily manageable in a non-4×4.
Crocodiles and dinosaur fish at Mzima Springs
We headed for Mzima Springs – one of Tsavo’s biggest attractions. Pools are fed by water from the Chyulu Hills filtered through volcanic rock; the result is crystalline clear water. On such a hot day all thoughts were of diving in but this placed is also loved by Crocs and Hippos. There is a great walk around the springs and a viewing point where you can look underneath the pools at the many fish and other animals that lurk within. It was the highlight of our trip. The dense canopy overhead, the sparkling water, and the monkeys leaping from tree to tree as crocs lazed about. We squealed in fear and delight as we watched our every step in trepidation at what would be round every corner.
Kilaguni Serena Resort
We treated ourselves to lunch at the Kilaguni Serena Resort. For 2500 KSH (20 dollars) a head we ate from the enormous buffet at the restaurant, which overlooked the watering hole. The view was expansive and unforgettable. The Chyulu Hills in the background, emerald green against the dusty orange plains. The waterhole satisfyingly filled with Buffalo and Buck. Lunch allowed us use of the pool and the kids splashed about as we patted our considerably larger bellies and lazed on sunbeds.
And the animals?
We didn’t see the big 5. In fact we saw only 1, but we did see herds of elephants crashing through he trees. A quad of giraffe running gracefully through the tall grass. A secretary bird stomping on a frog and the mélange of other African animals that are fascinating and exciting to see and so often overlooked.
Why visit Tsavo National Park?
Tsavo lacks the huge numbers of cats of the Maasai Mara, the herds of elephants of Amboseli and the chance to pet a wild Rhino like Ol Pejeta but it is incredibly scenic with Kilimanjaro in the background. It is close to Nairobi with an option to safari cheaply and a great safari stop off on the long ride to the coast.
There are huge numbers of animals in Tsavo but as the park is so vast is harder to see them that in some of the smaller parks. If you are coming to Kenya to tick the Big 5 off your list then Tsavo may not be for you, but if you want an authentic, romantic African safari that wont break the bank and wont take a take to drive to then Tsavo is your man.
We only left town for 2 days and 2 nights but it felt as though we’d been gone for months. We returned suntanned, dirty, dusty, exhausted, satiated, satisfied and exhilarated – which is exactly how you should feel after a trip into the bush
Interested in more safaris in Kenya.
Nairobi National Park offers safari close to Nairobi and 4 of the big 5
Accommodation in Nairobi
Visiting Nairobi – check out where to stay and what to do
That sounds like an amazing weekend away! Pity you didn’t get to see the big 5 but from the way you describe the area, just being in nature is enough. The drive sounds like a nightmare though, that first G&T must have been incredible :)
https://mcadventureblog.com/
I always love exploring in nature. This post totally appeals the taste of our family exploration.Love to see such posts in future too.
Looks like a fantastic adventure. We dream of going on a safari trip. Reading posts like this is always a little nudge towards saving for it and getting it booked :)
Well, first time hear about Tsavo, but you left me a good impression of it. Not that it is my dream destination now, but it looiks lovely.
Never actually tried a safari trip before. I would love too some day. I hope you had an amazing time exploring a different type of nature.
Such a great read! You had an amazing weekend and this post made me change my mind about safari! It looks so adventurous! :)
Awesome trip though I did not know the drive in Kenya is that bad! We did a safari in Serengeti, Tanzania a while back. The roads were quite empty then. But safaris are always exciting as you have said.
A great read and amazing photos! What a fab safari adventure. We still haven’t been on safari yet but it’s on the bucket list :)
Rio | OppositeTourists.com
Sounds like a great family adventure! Pity you didn’t see the big 5 but hey – elephants and giraffes? Hello? That’s seriously amazing! Going to have my first safari experience myself soon, superexcited!!! :)
Tsavo looks like a pretty laid back place where you can let yourself loose amidst the raw beautiful nature. Great read :)
What a truly awe inspiring experience! I loved your intro and descriptions of Tsavo’ss red soil, blue skies, and Baobab trees, I really felt like I was there with you ????
I think seeing a Zebra would be exciting enough for me!! Your pictures are beautiful.
Looks and sounds like a fantastic trip that would leave a lot of great memories. Love that you’re bringing light to this location.
I want to visit Kenya one day! The landscape looks spectacular, and glamping but in a house sounds like my kind of accommodation. I love the photos too!
It looks like a great place to visit with many photo opportunities on the safaris. :)
Sounds like a great weekend away from civilization and the modern rush of life.
Sorry about the big five! Glad you encountered the giraffe though. They are my favorite wild animal to watch. I just love how they move!
Africa is so blessed to have these amazing animals. I don’t think any safaris in the world could be compared with African safari.
It sounds like an amazing place to be. I love nature and exploring such places. Thanks for the tips.
Wow, this place is beautiful! And what an adventure too! No safari park can ever compare. Great post
Aw! I love safari! I love exploring the uniqueness of Africa, Nice blogpost!
Pingback: SGR train; Nairobi's cheap and easy way to travel to Mombasa
Pingback: Discover Tsavo West National Park – there’s more to a safari than lions. | The Expat Mummy
Pingback: Swara Acacia Lodge - a Nairobi weekend getaway | The Expat Mummy