Amboseli National Park is glorious, a compact park stuffed with sights so stunning we frequently stopped the car just to gape at the mother nature’s fabulous creations. This weekend we went camping in Amboseli and the park may have just become my favourite safari in Kenya.
Note, with recent increases to park fees for tourists in parks such as the Maasai Mara, Amboseli offers an excellent chance to safari for less. Park fee’s stand at a reasonable 60 USD for tourists vs 200 USD for the Mara in 2024 / 2025.
Amboseli Game Reserve
Amboseli sits obscenely close to Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain, whose towering presence commands you to admire its beauty. Amboseli National Park is a place of vast swamps, and elephants belly deep in mud and weeds. It’s a landscape of mirrored wetlands, pinkly speckled with flamingoes, gold crested cranes, morbidly repellent marabou storks and over 400 wetland loving bird species. Amboseli is a panorama of golden grass liberally doused in families of elephants; the babies gambolling like puppies, the matriarchs solemnly marching behind. It’s a hyena playground, a hippo holiday, land of gold and blue and animals streaked with black from the pungent swamp. It’s a sensorial feast. A safari wonderland.
What Animals are in Amboseli National Park?
What animals in Amboseli National Park? Elephants, elephants, elephants… I have never seen so many. There they are harumphing along the savannahs, splashing in the swamps, crunching trees in the forest. It becomes more of an oddity not to see an elephant somewhere in your peripheral vision.
Amboseli Elephants
Amboseli elephants are famous for their size—many of the last surviving big tuskers are to be found in Amboseli, and for the huge numbers of exceptionally large herds. There are estimated to be over 1000 elephants in Amboseli, a fat quantity for such a small park. They tour the park in herds of up to 100 (there are 58 separate elephant families), or you may spot one of the 300 lone adults. It’s almost impossible to do a game drive in Amboseli without seeing an elephant.
Animals in Amboseli Game Reserve
In Amboseli you will find most of safaris usual suspects: hyena, giraffe, zebra, impala, gazelle, wildebeest and buffalo. Here too are lion, cheetah, and leopard, although with the largest spotted cat being almost extinct in Amboseli, a sighting would be very lucky indeed. Rhino are extinct in Amboseli—visit Nairobi National Park or Ol Pejeta for your rhino fix. Amboseli is home to bat-eared fox, jackal, eland, hartebeest, hippo, wild dog, waterbuck and a dizzying spectacle of birds, but it is so much more than the sum of its animals. It is majesty and stillness; it is reflections of Kilimanjaro in its waters, it’s the happiest hippos you have ever seen. It’s is utterly unparalleled in its splendour and stateliness.
Amboseli Facts and Figures
Amboseli is 230 kilometres south east of Nairobi, right on the Tanzanian border, where all of nature’s great and glorious strut their stuff under the watchful eye of Kilimanjaro. Mount Kilimanjaro is in Tanzania, but Kenya steals the best views, and there is nowhere better to view Kili than in Amboseli.
Amboseli is small, you can drive across it in an hour. Just 390 square kilometres (1500 sq. miles) but consists of many ecosystems; swamp, forest, savannah, grassland, lake and mountain. Of particular importance are the Enkongo Narok and Olokeya swamps, which are fed from the runoff from Kilimanjaro; the melting snow waters, the swamps year-round and this permanent supply of water in a region where rivers frequently run dry attracts all the water-loving animals from hippos and elephants to kingfisher and flamingo.
Amboseli National park is located 1100 metres (3790 ft.) above sea level. It’s hot most of the year but doesn’t suffer the sticky tropical temperatures of the areas of Kenya that lie at sea level. The park became a UNESCO Biosphere reserve in 1991.
‘Amboseli’ is an interpretation of the Maa word Empusel, meaning ‘salty, dry place’. A third of Amboseli National Park is given over to Amboseli Lake, although the lake is a misnomer as for most of the year the lake is a vast dry plain. During the rains in March and April, it becomes a shallow lake filled with over 400 species of birds.
Best time to visit Amboseli National Park
Kenya winter/ cold season—June to October
- Best time for game viewing—the grass is shorter, which makes animals easier to spot and they don’t stray far from water sources.
Kenyan summer December to March
- Best views of Kilimanjaro—skies are clear of dust.
- Hot summer temperatures
Rainy seasons
- April—May (Long rains) Amboseli is swampland and during the long rains can become very waterlogged.
- Game viewing isn’t optimal during these times.
- Much less crowded
- November (short rains)—we went during the short rains and the park was magnificent. Lake Amboseli was still dry, the roads were well maintained, and the scenery was incredible, even if Kilimanjaro did stay cloaked in the cloud the entire time.
Park Fees for Amboseli National Park
How to get to Amboseli National Park
Nairobi to Amboseli (4 hours)
From Nairobi, Google maps will tell you to whizz down the Mombasa Road until Emali. (do you ever whizz down the Mombasa Road? More likely sit in traffic and dodge trucks). Then hang a right and stick to the C102 until you reach the sign for Amboseli at Kimana Gate. A quicker and less stressful way is to head on the Athi – Namanga (A104) highway through Bisil to Namanga at the Tanzanian border and then make a left until you reach Amboseli at Mashanani Gate. This is quicker, the road is perfect, there is hardly any traffic, it is also a lot more scenic.
From Mombasa to Amboseli (7.5 hours)
Turn on to the Mombasa road until Emali, take a left on to the C102 and enter through Kimana Gate.
By Train
Board the SGR at Nairobi or Mombasa and jump off at Emali – it is another 91 km to Amboseli so you will need to arrange transport through your Amboseli camp or hire a driver to come and pick you up.
By Air:
Safarilink offers three flights a day to Amboseli National Park from Nairobi Wilson Airport. Flights takes approximately 90 minutes.
Camping in Amboseli National Park
We are campers. I don’t love sleeping in a tent but I do love to travel and with safari camp prices starting around 200 USD per person, a quick weekend break becomes prohibitively expensive for my family of 5.
When we decided to go camping at Amboseli, we quickly found that there is almost no information on Amboseli campsites.
I used my best contacts: the fabulous Facebook group Camping in Kenya, a KWS contact and various friends, but no answers were to be found. So I went to Amboseli and scouted out the Amboseli campsites myself. In conclusion, there are 3, with none inside the park at all, (there was one but it has shut)
There may be a 4th – the 4×4 Amboseli Campsite, but to date I can find no details about it at all, except a brief description on the iOverlander App.
Kimana Camp Amboseli
Kimana Community Camp Amboseli or Kimana Camp is the most well-publicized campsite, being run through KWS but it’s far from KWS usual standard.
Located just outside Kimana Gate – it’s a sad indication of a good camp gone to ruin. Kimana Camp is a tented camp, as well as a campsite. Upon arrival, you will spot a series of safari tents that dot the overgrown site, lurching to the side like drunken soldiers. From the state the toilets and the general maintenance of the camp, I would rather chew my hand off than sleep in one of those tents.
The campsite itself is a small section of scrubby grass under huge acacia trees. The beautiful trees provide shade but they also provide homes to a horror story of bugs and insects. I have lived in Africa for 10 years and rarely seen a spider or creepy crawly, yet our night under the trees in Kimana Camp shall remain with me for years, in a bad way. Baboon spiders falling from the trees, Rhinoceros beetle larvae crawling up our legs, fist-sized beetles wherever you looked, cockroaches all over the toilets. Our whole family refused to use the toilets or showers, and we all went the bed at 9 pm shaking in our boots and wondering if the many potatoes sized spiders could work zips.
Olgulului Camp Amboseli
The second Amboseli campsite is Olgulului Camp – tucked to the far west of the camp. This is a no-frills at all campsite, not really a campsite at all, just somewhere you can pitch a tent – it has acacia trees, and an incredible view of Mount Kilimanjaro and that’s it. No long-drop, no running water, no firewood, nowt. That said, it’s infinitely preferable to Kimana Camp. It is outside the park, five mins before Meshanani Gate. If you get to the gate, you can ask and be shown the way. It is a Maasai ‘community campsite’, and the price is negotiable. Recent visitors to the park (2023) were initially told KES 5,000 per person per night, plus security, however, the KWS staff at the gate told us (in front of the Maasai negotiator) that the KWS campsite in the park was KES 250 pppn, we were able to get down to KES 500 pppn, plus KES 500 for an askari.
Manjaro Camp
Manjarao Camp is a new camp, established in 2020 – located near Kimana Gate and so far more accessible than Olgulului Camp. Manjaro has a few basic buildings with rooms, but you can also pitch your own tent. We paid KES 1,500 pppn (residents). We were able to use a bathroom with shower and loo; they made a fire for us; and if you like they will cook for you. It’s a great spot, quiet, private, lovely views of Kilimanjaro, friendly team, and in its own large plot. You can go on a morning / evening guided walk and will see plenty of game (incl. elephants) and birdlife. Great spot, recommended
Kimana Sanctuary
Kimana Sanctuary used to do the most idyllic camping but is now a tented camp. You can read my full blog here but ignore the camping part,
Safari Camps in Amboseli National Park
There are safari camps in Amboseli National Park both inside and outside the park. Generally, you pay more for being inside the park, but you have the benefit of being in the park for sunrise and sunset and not having to down a glass of gin and speed drive out the park before closing as we did. The options for safari camps in Amboseli are below:
Kibo Safari Camp
Kibo Safari Camp Amboseli is a highly recommended camp just outside Kimana Gate which is ranked No.1 on for lodges Amboseli on Trip Advisor.
It has stunning views of Kilimanjaro, is fenced and secure from wildlife. Read more about Kibo Safari Camp on my list of family friendly hotels in Kenya.
Kibo Safari Camp has 73 self-contained tents for single, double, triple and family accommodation. All tents have flush toilets, showers, and washbasins.
Facilities
- Open terraced restaurant
- · Lounge & Bar
- · Dining room
- · Swimming Pool
- · Spa/Massage
- · Art Gallery
- · Gift/Souvenir Shop
- · Conference Facilities
Prices from KSH 25,000/ USD 250 per adult couple
Elewana Tortilis Camp in Amboseli
Elewana Tortilis Camp in Amboseli is a 5 star tented camp situated at the south-west of Amboseli overlooking its over private conservancy. The Kitirua Wildlife Conservancy offers guests to Tortilis Camp exclusive access.
Accommodation at Tortilis consists of of 16 luxury makuti covered tents each with twin or double beds, en-suite bathroom and a spacious verandah. There is also has a private family tent with two adjacent bedrooms. Tortilis is a high end offering within Amboseli National Park.
Facilities
- Lounge and bar
- Swimming pool
- Spa
- Free Wi-Fi
- Gift shop
- Day & evening game drives
- Guided bush walks
- Bush breakfasts
- Birding
- Sundowners
- Cultural community visits
- Massage treatments, manicures & pedicures
- Children’s activities
Prices start from KSH 120,000/ USD 1,200 per adult couple sharing
BOOK ELEWANA TORTILIS SAFARI CAMP HERE
Kilma Safari Camp in Amboseli
Situated in Amboseli National Park, Kilima Safari Camp in Amboseli offers spacious accommodation with views of the animal water pools and the Mount Kilimanjaro.
The tents and lodges at Kilima Safari Camp include a 4-poster bed with a mosquito net. All rooms have a seating area and a private bathroom. Some include a claw-foot tub. Most rooms contain a double bed and a single bed.
Facilities
- Restaurant
- Bush dinners
- Massage treatments
- Swimming pool
- Nature walks and evening entertainment
- Guide game drives
Prices start from KSH 40,000 / USD 400 for an adult couple
Amboseli Serena Lodge
Amboseli Serena Lodge is the large group hotel that will make you feel safe and warm, it is bricks and mmortar rather than a tented camp which may offer some comfort to those of you less accustomed to the nighttime roar of a lioness on the hunt. Part of the Serena Group the 4 star Amboseli lodge is hunkered down in a prime spot in the park with views of Kilimanjaro and the wetlands.
Facilities
- restaurant
- gift shop
- buffet breakfast
- swimming pool
- bar
- free Wi-Fi
- shared lounge
- garden
Prices from KSH 25,000/ USD 250 per adult couple
BOOK AMBOSELI Serena LODGE HERE
Porini Amboseli Camp
Porini is a well known and trusted safari company. Their Porini Amboseli Camp is just outside Amboseli National Park in the Maasai-owned conservancy called Selenkay.
Porini Amboseli Camp has nine tents all en-suite. The canvas tents have a traditional safari design, with simple furnishings, spacious rooms and comfortable thick rugs and bed linen.
Facilities
- Guided game drives
- Guided bush walks
- Sundowners
- Viewing platforms over watering holes
- Lounge and dining area
Prices from KSH 64,000/ USD 640 per adult couple ALL INCLUSIVE
Further Reading
2022 UPDATE: Why Choose a Self Drive Safari Kenya
How much does a Masai Mara safari cost?21 Incredible Family Friendly Resorts in Kenya
The Ultimate 10 Days in Kenya Itinerary
45 Unmissable Kenya Tourist Attractions & Secret Gems
21 Incredible Family Friendly Resorts in Kenya
Book Your Kenya Trip – Insider Tips
Find everything you need for visiting Kenya on my TRAVEL RESOURCES page.
Find everything you need for moving to Kenya in my THE EXPAT GUIDE TO LIVING IN NAIROBI book.
- Kenya Accommodation: Booking.com has the cheapest rates for hotels and guest houses in Kenya.
- Accommodation Reviews: TripAdvisor is my go-to portal for checking reviews on accommodation/restaurants in the local area. I never book without checking TripAdvisor first.
- ESIM: Airalo allows you to access the Internet from virtually any country without paying roaming charges
- Car Rental: Rental Cars is managed by Booking.com – guaranteed reliable.
- Tours and Guides in Kenya : Check out Get Your Guide and Viator – reputable companies that do tours within Kenya and East Africa.
- Travel Insurance: Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I recommend Visitors Coverage, which covers you for East Africa and offers ‘special insurance’ for safaris and adventure sports:
- Visitors Coverage
- Compensair – if you have a cancelled or delayed flight, you may get a refund.
Really nice
Thanks for sharing
welcome x
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Visited Amboseli July 2023, camping. Update on campsites:
Olgulului Camp Amboseli
Spent first night here. It is outside the park, five mins before Meshanani Gate. If you get to the gate you can ask and be shown the way. It is a Maasai ‘community campsite’, and the price is negotiable. We were initially told KES 5,000 per person per night, plus security. Because the KWS staff at the gate told us (in front of the Maasai negotiator) that the KWS campsite in the park (see below) was KES 250 pppn, we were able to get down to KES 500 pppn, plus KES 500 for an askari. In the end the askari went home for the night and came back in the morning, so we were totally alone, which we were happy with. The site is not really a campsite, just somewhere you can pitch a tent. There are zero facilities. No water, nothing. A nice, peaceful, private spot.
Manjaro Camp
This is fairly new (est. 2020). Not included in article above but essential for campers to know about. It is at the other end (south east) of the park (just outside the park), ten mins from Kimana Gate (much busier; this is where most of the lodges are and where most people enter the park, whereas we saw nobody at Meshanani Gate). Manjaro has a few basic buildings with rooms, but you can also pitch your own tent. We paid KES 1,500 pppn (residents). We were able to use a bathroom with shower and loo; they made a fire for us; and if you like they will cook for you. It’s a great spot, quiet, private, lovely views (incl. Kili), friendly team, and in its own large plot. You can go on a morning / evening guided walk and will see plenty of game (incl. elephants) and birdlife. Great spot, recommended.
KWS Campsite
This is inside the park, five mins from Kimana Gate. It is good value (KES 250pppn), has facilities, sheltered tables, etc., but it doesn’t feel quite so wild or special. You drive through some KWS buildings to get there. It was busy (five or six couples + cars) when we popped by. Views of Kili.
Goes without saying that you need a 4×4 to reach any of these.
Thank you so much. This is so helpful and Ill add to my blog right away, im thinking of camping next week, if i dont go to the Mara for migration, Ill do one of these sites. Thanks for your time.
HI,
Thank you for all this information. Incredibly useful as I too am finding it hard to get much information on campsites. It seems Manjaro is the one to go for.
Have you got any suggestions of campsites in Tsavo West?
Also if you stay in a camp outside Amboseli do you have to pay entrance fee for every time you enter the camp?
Thanks,
Sam
Sorry totally missed this,
The parks are all changing their fee structure… it used to be that a pass lasted 24 hours – I know the Mara has changed it to that day, so it doesn’t roll over until the next days.
I’ve not camped at Tsavo West, but I am in a few weeks. I ll try to remember to update