The Majlis Resort in Lamu sits on the edge of the world. It stares into an ocean that stretches 5000 kilometres to another continent. It shimmers in golden sands in a small corner of Africa, at almost the furthest point of Kenya before it turns into Somalia. The Majlis Resort is impossible to drive to, only accessible by boat or plane.
It is hard to say whether I fell in love with the hotel or the island itself. Since my teens, I have wanted to visit Lamu. I imagined wild beaches and a jumble of houses falling over themselves to reach the sea. I thought of blue skies, translucent waters, date palms, donkeys, and an overwhelming sense of solitude. Lamu was all of these things – but the cherry on the cake is The Majlis Resort.
The Majlis Resort in Lamu is a marvel of understated architecture. Created from nothing, a palace on an island of shifting sands and moody tides. Each of the five buildings is unique, giving the impression of a haphazard collection of beautiful residences rather than the polished formality of a hotel. Our block is cool marble, clean lines and expensive art. Another mimics a sail reaching for the sky. My favourite looks like ancient Swahili ruins.
The hotel is surrounded by mature gardens: towering palms, shady acacias and bougainvillaea a riot of colour – the air perfumed by frangipani. The grounds are immaculate, not a single leaf litters the white sand floor. Two swimming pools glitter in the complex. The waters are deep and cool in the 40-degree heat. Three bars face the ocean, each with a different vibe. Much is made here of separate spaces and themes. As each building is individual, so too are the pools, bars and spa. One pool is a modern square, the other gently curving and shaded by trees. A bar housed in a replica ruin, another on the beach, another by a fire pit. All bars have views over Ras Kitau bay, Shela village and Lamu island.
The 40 bedrooms are spacious, air-conditioned and immaculate. High beamed ceilings, white coral blocks, exquisite art on the walls, sofas, desks and private terraces or balconies. A spa offers a full range of treatments, the sports centre paddleboards, kayaks and sand bikes, waterskiing, kite surfing. The Majlis will arrange day trips to nearby islands or snorkelling boat trips.
Food is served upstairs in a light, breezy restaurant, down on the beach or next to the pool. The menu is a mix of international flavours, predominantly Italian, Indian and Swahili dishes with an emphasis on fish which is purchased from local fishermen each morning.
There were some children at The Majlis, but I would recommend this as a place for adults. We went as a big group and they catered to our every need, but it’s the perfect place for a romantic break. I haven’t stayed in Lamu or Shela, but I doubt that there are many places that can beat The Majlis and Manda Island is a beachy, breezy alternative to the hot, stuffy streets over on Lamu.
Lamu, Kenya
Lamu is a small town on the Kenyan coast. It is part of the Lamu archipelago of 65 small islands, including Lamu Island, Manda Island, Pate island and Kiwayu Island. It’s the oldest living Swahili town in Kenya, dating back to the 12th century with a rich history in trade, fishing and farming. Lamu & Shela have architectural influences from Europe, India and Arabia typified by narrow streets, mosques, and carved wooden doors.
Lamu was gazetted as a UNESCO world heritage site since 2001.
How to get to Lamu?
There is a road to Lamu, but it is too dangerous to drive, due to conflict with Somalia. The only real way is to travel by plane. Flights depart Mombasa, Malindi and Nairobi and land at the tiny Lamu airstrip. From there is a 10-minute speedboat ride to The Majlis Resort.
How to book The Majlis Resort
The Majlis Resort can be contacted directly on their website.
Rates include full board accommodation (3 meals a day); Manda airstrip transfers by motorboat; Wi-Fi, mineral water and some activities. Take note that from December 20th to January 4th minimum 5-night stay is required.
Book Your Kenya Trip – Insider Tips
Find everything you need for visiting Kenya on my TRAVEL RESOURCES page.
Find everything you need for moving to Kenya in my THE EXPAT GUIDE TO LIVING IN NAIROBI book.
- Kenya Accommodation: Booking.com has the cheapest rates for hotels and guest houses in Kenya.
- Accommodation Reviews: TripAdvisor is my go-to portal for checking reviews on accommodation/restaurants in the local area. I never book without checking TripAdvisor first.
- ESIM: Airalo allows you to access the Internet from virtually any country without paying roaming charges
- Car Rental: Rental Cars is managed by Booking.com – guaranteed reliable.
- Tours and Guides in Kenya : Check out Get Your Guide and Viator – reputable companies that do tours within Kenya and East Africa.
- Travel Insurance: Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I recommend Visitors Coverage, which covers you for East Africa and offers ‘special insurance’ for safaris and adventure sports:
- Visitors Coverage
- Compensair – if you have a cancelled or delayed flight, you may get a refund.
