Lamu Island, Kenya, is part of an archipelago on the northern end of Kenya’s coastline. Nudging Somalia, its remoteness is part of its charm, but its proximity to Kenya’s warring neighbours keeps the tourists at bay. Lamu is unequivocally beautiful. Once described as where the desert meets the ocean, Lamu Island Kenya is a riot of bougainvillaea clad, coral stone buildings which tumble down the hillside surrounded by peanut butter dunes, all washed clean by the transparent waters of the Indian Ocean.
I’ve lusted after Lamu my entire life. I fell in love through the pages of a book, and when I finally made it to Lamu Island’s silken shores, it was everything I hoped for: remote, romantic, hot, hippy, utterly fabulous.
Lamu Island Swahili History
Lamu Island Kenya was first settled over 700 hundred years ago, and became a significant trading port for sailors from Arabia, India, China, and Southeast Asia. Whilst a variety of spices, ivory, and timber formed part of Lamu’s trading history, it was mainly known as a centre for the slave trade. When slavery was abolished in 1907, Lamu’s slave population left in droves, causing the local economy to collapse. Lamu languished in relative obscurity until it became a destination on the hippie trail in the 1960s. These stories of 1960s hippie Lamu were what had so enticed me in my teens. Today, Lamu is a key tourist destination, but that hippie vibe remains. Kaftans and coconuts all day, baby.
Lamu Island Kenya Architecture
Centuries of inhabitation by a melting pot of cultures makes Lamu Island a place of historical and religious importance. Lamu’s background, its natural diversity and indigenous beauty contributed to Lamu being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lamu has defied the eyewateringly ugly new builds that litter the rest of Kenya, and the old town today, is still composed of 15th-century buildings built from coral stone and mango wood. Higgledy piggledy, the streets of Lamu twist and turn, offering tantalising glimpses of the blue ocean, the salted breeze mingling with the scent of Lamu’s most famous residents, the ever-present donkey. Lamu’s Swahili architecture is apparent throughout the town: intricately carved wooden doors, terraced balconies and lintels engraved with quotes from the Koran. The Arabic influences are ever present; even the buildings are orientated towards Mecca. Privacy is paramount in Muslim culture, and many Swahili-style buildings are centred around courtyards, some filled with splash pools; the shaded squares offer a respite from the searing sun. No cars are allowed on Lamu and all transport is by foot or by donkey. This slow pace, and the ever present sun, permeate the environment, and enforces a laid back way of life.
Shela – Lamu Island Kenya
At low tide, it is possible to walk 3 km from Lamu Town to Shela (take a water taxi at high tide). Shela, Lamu’s prettier sister, is fronted by a 12km expanse of golden beach. The town, populated with mosques, donkeys and dhows, retains the authentic cultural importance of Lamu Old Town but is home to more hotels and guest houses, which makes it a more popular tourist destination. In Shela, you will find the illustrious Peponi Hotel. Beloved by celebrities, Peponi steals the top spot, being on the beach and nestled within the town. Sipping an Old Pal cocktail on its terrace is an Instagram must-do.
Manda Island – Lamu Kenya
Across the seemingly innocent channel from Lamu is Manda Island. The lack of freshwater on Manda Island, Kenya means few people live here. Manda is magical. Its torpid charm invites you to sail through mangroves at high tide, walk the heat-hazed and entirely deserted beaches, visit the Takwa Ruins, or just sit. Sit and be still on this most languid of destinations. Manda Island is home to exclusive high-end hotels, but it’s possible to find some Airbnb houses. The only restaurants on the island are located within the hotels.
What to do in Lamu Island
Lamu is for soaking up the bohemian vibes and doing nothing at all, but if you are a restless soul like me, then there is an adventure to be found.
Shopping in Lamu Island
Lamu Island, Kenya, is as far from a bustling metropolis as possible, but it has several shops selling local crafts, divine dresses, and unique jewellery.
- Aman – this boutique is beloved all over Kenya for exquisite hand tailored clothing.
- Ali Lamu – they make bespoke bags from recycled dhow sales.
- https://www.natural-lamu.com/Natural Lamu – natural products inspired by lamu (they have an onsite spa)
- African Corner – your usual Swahili crafts
Sail on a Dhow in Lamu Island
Lamu and dhows are intrinsically bound. These traditional sailing vessels range from wooden canoes to piratesque galleons. You can take a moonlight tour, a sunset sail, a snorkelling trip, an island hop or even spend a few days sleeping upon a dhow. It’s an absolute must-do in Lamu.
Dive in the Indian Ocean
Lamu has some of the best diving in Kenya. Head to the Kiunga Marine National Reserve, a 37-mile-long collection of coral reefs and islets. You’ll find sharks, whales, whale sharks, moray eels, dugongs, manta rays and all the tropical fish you could wish for. Currently, there are no dive schools in Lamu, but some big hotels can assist with diving. Or you can contact one of the Kenya dive schools and ask about trips/liveaboards to Lamu.
Swim/ SUP the Lamu channel.
It doesn’t look far, but it’s not for the faint-hearted. The currents in the channel have claimed more than a few lives over the years.
Get a Treatment at Natural Lamu
Natural Lamu Spa is located opposite Banana House. They often tons of different treatments including facials, massages, mani/pedi’s. Total relaxation.
Hit Lamu Beach
Lamu Island, its sister Manda Island, and the whole Lamu archipelago is one huge beach.
Go To One of Lamu’s Festivals
Lamu is famous for its festivals, the most popular are the Lamu Yoga Festival (March), the Lamu Cultural Festival (November) and Maulid Festival (June). Accommodation and places are booked up early, so if you want to go then make sure you are first in line.
Take a Tour of Lamu Town
Book a guided tour of Lamu town to understand and immerse yourself in Lamu’s history fully. You can book walking tours through your hotel or via Get Your Guide, linked below.
Visit Lamu Museums
There are five museums in Lamu Town which you can visit. Find more details on Lamu museums here https://museums.or.ke/lamu-museum/
Visit the Takwa Ruins on Lamu Island
Located on Manda Island, the Takwa Ruins are the remains of a 16th-century settlement.
Where to Stay in Lamu, Shela and Manda Island
There is a wide choice of places to stay, from luxurious, fully inclusive resorts to thatched beach huts.
It’s worth a quick look on Airbnb to see if you can pick up a deal. The best places are always booked out months in advance, so as with much of the Kenyan coast, the earlier you can book, the better.
Accommodation on Lamu Island
Peponi Hotel – high-end hotel in Shela Town
Kizingo Beach Lodge – high-end lodge on the western side of Lamu Island
Banana House and Wellness Centre – Shela Town, plush boho resort
Jua House – Hotel located in Shela
Forodhani House – Private house located in Shela
The Moon Houses – interconnecting houses in Shela
The Cabanas – Gorgeous homes on Lamu’s south coast
Accommodation on Manda Island
The Majilis Resort – A very luxurious high-end resort.
Manda Bay Lodge – 5-star lodge
Restaurants Lamu Island.
Peponi Hotel: Shela is Shela’s best-known, most frequented restaurant and bar.
Kijani Restaurant: Seafront restaurant in Shela, specialising in seafood and Swahili curries.
MaraRaha Village Lounge: Bar/ restaurant in the dunes near Shela. Their party nights are unparalleled, with fiercely good DJs and a crowd that dances till dawn.
Ali Lamu: Cafe for cakes, smoothies and ice cream.
Diamond Beach Village: Pizza, movies nights and party nights out on Manda Island.
Need To Know: Lamu Island Kenya
Lamu Island Kenya is predominantly Muslim. Visitors, particularly women, should show respect by wearing loose clothing and not showing too much skin.
Alcohol is forbidden in the Muslim religion and, therefore, not as freely available as elsewhere in Kenya. Hotels will serve alcoholic drinks, but you may struggle to find them in the shops, particularly in Shela.
No cars are allowed on Lamu or Manda Island. You may find a few small motorbikes, but transport is mainly by donkey, foot or water taxi.
Getting to Lamu Island Kenya
Lamu is only accessible by plane. Although there are road links, I don’t know anyone who drives due to ongoing threats from al-Shabbab terrorists. The drive is long and remote and not worth it.
Airlines that fly to Lamu are Safarilink Jambojet, Skyward Express, and Fly540. Flights go from Nairobi, Mombasa and Malindi.
It’s a short boat ride from the airport to Lamu Island. Speak to your hotel for a transfer.
When to Visit Lamu Island Kenya
Lamu is hot, hot, hot any time of year. Traditionally, the rains in Kenya fall from April to June and October to November/ Dec. Christmas is very busy, and prices soar.
Further Reading for Lamu Island
The Majlis Resort in Lamu, Kenya
The 8 Best Restaurants in Mombasa
Kilifi Kenya – The Ultimate Holiday Guide
Watamu Beach Kenya: The Insiders Guide to Paradise
Book Your Kenya Trip – Insider Tips
Find everything you need for visiting Kenya on my TRAVEL RESOURCES page.
Find everything you need for moving to Kenya in my THE EXPAT GUIDE TO LIVING IN NAIROBI book.
- Kenya Accommodation: Booking.com has the cheapest rates for hotels and guest houses in Kenya.
- Accommodation Reviews: TripAdvisor is my go-to portal for checking reviews on accommodation/restaurants in the local area. I never book without checking TripAdvisor first.
- ESIM: Airalo allows you to access the Internet from virtually any country without paying roaming charges
- Car Rental: Rental Cars is managed by Booking.com – guaranteed reliable.
- Tours and Guides in Kenya : Check out Get Your Guide and Viator – reputable companies that do tours within Kenya and East Africa.
- Travel Insurance: Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. I recommend Visitors Coverage, which covers you for East Africa and offers ‘special insurance’ for safaris and adventure sports:
- Visitors Coverage
- Compensair – if you have a cancelled or delayed flight, you may get a refund.
Dear Nadine,
I hope this letter finds you well. I am writing to express my heartfelt gratitude for the invaluable resource that your blog has been to us.
Although I have been back to Kenya a few times, our holidays have often been planned by family. This year, my wife and I decided to plan our visit based on our terms. Your dedication to providing insightful content and helpful advice really made a significant difference in our trip, and I wanted to take a moment to thank you sincerely.
Your blog served as a guiding light for us as we planned our visit, and the locations that we visited were exactly as you described! From practical tips on navigating everyday tasks to insightful articles on cultural nuances, your blog was an invaluable companion on our journey.
Once again, thank you from the bottom of our hearts for your dedication and support. Your blog has made a meaningful difference in our lives, and we are sincerely grateful.
Warmest regards,
David and Becca, USA
That’s very kind – thank you